Boulder WC 2010 report #6 - Sheffield
The Sheffield Boulder World Cup 2010 was a lovely event taking place in a circus tent on a grassy fairground. Fortunately weather forecasts were wrong and we enjoyed perfect english boulder conditions! Good news for the last BWC in Munich on the last weekend of July: almost every outcome is still possible with Adam Ondra winning and Kilian Fischhuber not being in the finals for the first time this year! Same is true with the girls where Sheffield winner Chloé Graftiaux, third place Akiyo Noguchi and Anna Stöhr (not in the finals this time) all still can win the Boulder World Cup 2010! We were not entirely happy with the route setting this time and show longer takes of the actual climbing than on previous "Boulder WC reports" to make our point. Specifically, we thought the girls' problems were too reach depended and we are not excited about those "pro-forma-two-hands-on-something-pseudo-tops" (watch for the yellow dihedral and Anna Stöhr falling off three times in the clip!) If you think differently, please join the discussion about route setting. Also stay tuned for our thorough analysis of the "State of the Art of route setting" later this year! On another technical note concerning our "Boulder World Cup 2010 reports" - they walk a fine line between being "fast out" and "interesting & informative". Yes, lower thirds with competitors names would be nice, but mind you, these clips are edited by me immediately after returning from the very draining comps and are meant to give an inside view into how boulder problems were solved and to show differences among the competitors. You can always look up how the comp went as well as the actual rankings on http://www.ifsc-climbing.org if you don't know the faces by now. Stay posted for a "Making-of the Boulder WC 2010 reports" with lots of background footage after the last World Cup in Munich on www.udini.com too!
-.- slow motion ...
-.- slow motion sucks...
lmdbluis
is the female in ...
is the female in red Julie Wurm?
steelerslovers743
What is the name ...
What is the name of the girl from Germany??
steelerslovers743
just because anna ...
just because anna stohr couldnt do the problem it doesnt mean its bad it just means that she couldnt work out how to get the knee bar to work, it makes it a good problem because it separates the competitors who can climb and the competitors who can pull really hard. A lot of the climbing in the UK and especially near sheffield requires strange tricks and techniques more than strength maybe the route setters were trying to show this with their problems
ollicrudge
the first one ...
the first one looked really hard what grade is that?
bulletshaundakin
What grade would ...
What grade would these guys be climbing?
clarkey1009484
love the videos btw ...
love the videos btw, hope ur doing them for 2011
theultimateshoe
I agree, generally ...
I agree, generally very interesting problems! For the girls 2 were a little too hight-depending though...
therealudini
by 'good' i mean in ...
by 'good' i mean in a spacial awareness, balance, co-ordination kind of way
theultimateshoe
Udo, its ...
Udo, its interesting you make this point about the route setting, the main guy who sets for this and the 'climbing works' nearby (P.B) is quite well known for this style of route setting. Its almost a regional style and perhaps an aquired taste but either way he's very well respected in the U.K for his setting and even though they were perhaps not in a style that suited lots of these climbers, i personally think they are, in a general sense, good problems
theultimateshoe
Kind notice for you ...
Kind notice for you Latin women ** rockmycity.info **
KElQKify
not the best ...
not the best problems!
RawTris
commercials ...
commercials advertisements can suck a black penis!
WeBeChillin420
Someone says ...
Someone says Ondra's great grandparents were monkeys. I agree.
Balto92
sometimes, but ...
sometimes, but other times he seems so lanky and flaily :p sometimes he jsut whips around
sti1tz
Looked like Chloe ...
Looked like Chloe Grafitaux in there. RIP. Tragic accident in the Alps. Ondra is amazing...such control...
humanchewtoy
hi udo,,what's the ...
hi udo,,what's the music from all this movies,with wc boulder 2010..?
pogozdubi
Udo, when they are ...
Udo, when they are all talking beta, what language do they talk to each other in? Do they know just a few simple terms in reference to climbing of one common language?
benrweston
Adam FUCKING ...
Adam FUCKING ONDRAA !!!!
Lifeisafruit
great film and i ...
great film and i love the wall so im going for the bbc's next year wish me luck
flubwow
nice vid but the ...
nice vid but the sounds are quit strange
klaser
I disagree about ...
I disagree about the reach-dependant holds, not show in the video are more successful tops made by shorter girls who just used better techniques throughout.
Uresu
Totally agree about ...
Totally agree about the route-setting. The height dependent nature of the womens' problems struck me immediately. And the funky yellow dihedral finishing hold: well, it's cute once, but ...
slopergroper
These vidz are ...
These vidz are awesome! So glad you are putting in all this work ... it is definitely much appreciated!
slopergroper
I love Natalija ...
I love Natalija Gros crazy Jean-Claude Van Damme Air splits on women's finals #2.
yvesgravelle